A railing is what you lean on and what keeps people from going over the edge. If yours moves when you push on it, that is worth dealing with now rather than after someone leans on it harder.
Any one of these is worth a look. Two or more usually means replacing the railing rather than patching it.
Oregon's residential code asks for a guard on any deck whose surface sits more than 30 inches above the ground. That guard has to be at least 36 inches tall, and the openings in it have to be small enough that a 4-inch ball will not pass through. The spacing rule is about keeping small children from slipping between the rails.
Your city can add requirements on top of the state code, so we confirm the details with your jurisdiction before we build. We handle that rather than leaving it to you.
We fit cable and aluminum. Both are chosen for the same reason we build the decks we do — neither one asks you to sand or repaint it every couple of years.
Thin horizontal cables run between posts. Because there is so little material in the way, it blocks much less of the view than a standard railing. It costs more than aluminum, mostly because the posts have to be built stiff enough to hold the cables under tension. Worth the money on a deck that looks at trees or a hillside, less so on one that faces a fence.
Powder-coated aluminum. It does not rust and it never needs repainting, so once it is up you are finished with it. It blocks more of the view than cable does and costs less. If your deck is not looking at anything in particular, that is an easy trade to make.
We start underneath rather than on top. A railing is only as solid as the framing it is bolted to, so we check the posts, the rim joist and the fasteners before we quote anything. A new railing on soft framing is still a loose railing.
Then we set or replace the posts, fit the rails, and either tension the cable or fit the aluminum panels. Post work is most of the job on a cable railing, which is why it costs what it does.
Before we call it done we measure the finished height and the gaps against what your jurisdiction requires. On a new deck that check happens as part of the inspection — see Deck Building.
Often, yes, as long as the framing and posts underneath are still sound. That is the first thing we check. If the framing the railing bolts into has gone soft, that has to be dealt with first or the new railing ends up loose too.
Aluminum, generally. Cable costs more because the posts have to be built to hold the cables tight, and that is extra work on every post. We will price both for your deck so you can see the real difference rather than a rule of thumb.
Cable railings are tensioned when they go in, and cables generally want checking and adjusting from time to time. In a climate like ours, which swings between soaking wet and dry, once a year is a sensible habit. It is a simple job with a hand tool and we will walk you through it.
Horizontal cables can be easier for a determined child to climb than a vertical railing. If you have small kids, tell us and we will talk it through before you decide. It is a real consideration and we would rather raise it than have you find out later.
It depends on the city and on how much is changing. A railing replaced as part of a larger deck project is normally covered by that project's permit. On its own it varies, and either way the finished guard still has to meet code. We confirm what your city wants before we start.
Tell us what you have in mind. We will come out, look at your space, and give you an honest, clear estimate. There is no charge for the visit and no pressure to book.
